![]() ![]() The heavy duty motor and drivetrain are optimized for durability and performance. Inside and outside chamfer tools and primer pocket cleaners are included to fully prepare cases for loading. In addition to the cutter the station operates up to three additional tools at the same time. A series of three collets and six bushings (all included) accommodate any shouldered case from.17 Remington to.460 Weatherby. As the case mouth contacts the cutter it is trimmed until the case shoulder stops on an internal bushing. Once the case holder is adjusted simply insert brass into the case holder as a collet aligns the case squarely with the hi-speed cutter. An innovative case holder with adjustable collet and bushing system indexes the case shoulder and can be set to precisely trim brass to the exact desired length. 002 some will have a very light crimp or some will fold cases and won't load in the cylinder.Frankford ArsenalĀ®'s Case Trim & Prep Center accurately trims brass in seconds. The other is to get an identical roll crimp on all cases. Two reasons are given, one is because of a bullet backing out of the case from recoil and binding the cylinder so it won't turn, in magnums. You will absolutely want to trim revolver rounds that require a roll crimp. You may want to do some before and after measurements of COAL in the remaining rounds in a mag if you were shooting some ULTRA hot loads, there's a slight chance bullets may back out a bit from recoil. And yes, you'll feel a difference as you crimp, just keep it on the light crimp side and don't wrinkle cases. Only crimp enough to get rid of the bell in the case. Indeed.I went through the same thing for a bit when I started, but not 1400 cases! You mention crimping, there's really no reason to do much crimping on cases that headspace on the case mouth. Is trimming 9mm always difficult? Is there some technique I'm missing or do I just need an expensive trimmer? I've done a similiar amount of 40 S&W and many don't need any trim. From my experience, the 9mm's stretch a lot after resizing.much more than the 40's. I need suggestions from some with more experience on the 9mm. I hate to spend hundreds of dollars just to handle the 9mm's but, I'd rather take a beating than tackle another round with the hand trimmer. I've now finished 1400 pieces that are ready for powder and bullets. I'm sure its the tapered 9mm case characteristics that have me dreading the second round of reloading for the 9mm. I also reload for 40 S&W and have no trimmer problems. I'd like to know if there is something I'm missing here. And, it is no faster (maybe slower) than using the hand trimmer. The trimmer is hard to set up on the drill press, it is difficult if not impossible to set the exact trim length and the pilot still gets stuck in the case mouth and pulls out of the cutter head even though the allen head screw holding it in is as tight as I can get it. That hasn't been the experience I've had. I have read the reviews on this trimmer and they all seemed positive. Because I already had the Forester gear, I figured I'd use the Forster power trimmer and my drill press. ![]() I decided to look at power trimmers for this 9mm project. After a hundred trims, my fingers get sore enough I take a break. ![]() I went back to the expander die and checked to make sure I had the case mouth opened enough to start a bullet with my is.so, I don't want to expand the mouth of the case further. I mean tight-tight, to the point I have to put a huge effort into turning the cutter shaft and sometimes the brass case spins in the collet. I find the neck on most cases still extremely tight on the trimmer pilot. ![]() I sized, deprimed, expanded the neck and started the trimming process with a Forster hand trimmer. I started with 1000, clean, once fired brass from the local range. ![]()
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